I've written up my personal list of favorite things to see, eat and do in the major Italian cities in e-mail form so many times now that I've decided it would be best to recount it here so that I can refer future inquiries to this blog. My visits to Italy have been informed by various guides and websites, including Michelin, Rick Steves, Zagat, Eyewitness Travel, Wikipedia and other online sources. Of course, a few of the best gems were discovered by word of mouth and random exploration.
First, a gratuitous pitch for Pocket Pilot maps. I know that most of us can conveniently resort to our iPhones or various other GPS-enabled devices for maps and directions, but for those who still need to resort to physical maps (i.e., no international phone plans), I highly recommend the Pocket Pilot series, which are available for most major cities in Europe, the UK, and the Americas (mostly U.S. and Canada, but a few cities here and there in South American countries as well). They are precise, laminated, well-scaled, literally do fit comfortably in pockets (even women's pockets), and usually contain public transportation guides as well (i.e., subway routes).
For a little more depth and feel for various aspects or places in Italy (particularly Venice), I recommend the following books: The City of Falling Angels by John Berendt (of Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil fame), Eating Up Italy: Voyages on a Vespa by Matthew Fort, The Companion Guide to Venice by Hugh Honour, Eat, Pray, Love by Elizabeth Gilbert (at least the first part about eating in Rome), and the indulgent historic-fictional romance, A Venetian Affair by Andrea di Robilant.
I'm starting with Venice because it is my favorite city in Italy, and one of my favorites in the whole world. As soon as I glimpse the island from the Alilaguna boat (my favored mode of transportation from Aeroporto di Marco Polo), not only am I transplanted to a faraway place, but also a faraway time. The architecture and gondolas set the stage for you, but what really brings the feeling home is what's missing - cars. What makes Venice truly unique is the fact that its streets are purely pedestrian. Boats are a common mode of transportation, but by virtue of their being relegated to the water, they do not share (and thus do not interfere) with pedestrian streets. At the risk of preempting your own moment of revelation, I found that the complete absence of cars on the island refreshed my soul, a renewal I felt for the first time two days into my first visit. I felt like a new person, and after a few moments (as I strolled toward the Ferrovia station to buy a train ticket), I spotted the car park near the station, (Venice's umbilical cord connection to the mainland and the only place on the island you can spot any car at all), I realized how absolutely relaxing it was to not have to contend with cars.
VENICE HOTELS
We've only had the opportunity to stay at three hotels in Venice, but they are a good range for comparison.
Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal (http://www.hotelmonaco.it/) is our favorite. It's certainly not a budget hotel, but it's a great value if you can book their "Romantic" or "Honeymoon" stays, which last I checked in 2008 came out to approximately 200 euros per night for a 3-night stay, which includes tax (VAT), breakfast and usually some other goodie, ranging from a classical music CD (ok by me, not so exciting for Mark) to a bottle of Prosecco (score!). I would easily pay 350-400 euros per night and still feel as if it was a good deal (esp. after our experience at the Danieli, described next). The rooms are less ornate than older, historic hotels, but thereby more comfortable, and the bathrooms are large, elegant, with working heated towel racks and good water pressure. The complimentary breakfast is just a variety of breads and muffins, but you can request a variety of drinks (as many as you like, even if you order it for in-room delivery rather than going down to the dining room) and they make excellent cappuccinos. Don't be shy, and make use of their concierge desk. They are VERY helpful, and don't expect tips (although we always tip them gladly and generously at the end of our stay). The Hotel Monaco is also ideally located. It is almost directly in front of the San Marco vaporetto stop, which is very convenient for getting to and from anywhere, and is just steps (ok, maybe 20-30 steps) from Piazza San Marco. In fact, the Alilaguna boat shuttle from the Aeroporto di Marco Polo will drop you off at that stop, too. There is a lot to be said for not having to drag your luggage across town to get to and from your hotel.
Side note: The Alilaguna ride to and from the airport is over an hour long, but it's the most cost-effective way to get to Venice from the airport if you aren't in a large group, and as a bonus, you get great views of Venice on your way in since it circles the island to get to the San Marco stop (we always take the blue line, which makes several stops before it gets to San Marco - the gold line is more direct, but also more expensive). Water taxis are molto expensive, and only worth it if you're in a big hurry or have 5+ people going in one taxi.
Hotel Danieli, one of the preeminent luxury hotels in Venice, was a disaster for us. While I think it's extremely difficult, if not impossible, to have a great time on a budget in Venice, I certainly don't recommend spending a ton of money on beautiful old historic hotels that do not boast very recent renovations, even the ones that come highly recommended in Michelin, various other travel guides, and even that 1000 Places To See Before You Die book (maybe they were just recommending that you see the Hotel Danieli's lobby and not actually stay there overnight). The room we had was old, with chairs upholstered in the same pattern as the upholstered walls, curtains and bed covers. The antique-like furniture looked and felt like it was 100 years old, with the thinning threads, and worst of all, the two separate twin beds provided (not two twins mattresses bound together, which is usually what a King room in Europe would be) were lumpy and literally the worst beds we had ever slept on. The staff was snooty and cold, and quite obvious about waiting around for tips for every little bit of service performed (clearly used to fast-tipping American tourists). The lobby is beautiful, and I hear tell the restaurant has an excellent view, but those things you can experience without paying 450+ euros per night to stay the night there.
Finally, Palazzo Selvadego is a good, less expensive option. It is just down the street from, and a sister hotel of, the Hotel Monaco, so you get the same level of service and clean, modern facilities, just with less space, less high art, no real lobby to speak of, and you have to walk a few feet down the street to the Hotel Monaco for your complementary breakfast. It's not directly on the Grand Canal, but it shares the same proximity to the Piazza San Marco as the Hotel Monaco.
If you're going to check out the Piazza San Marco first thing, which I highly recommend even if you aren't going into the Basilica, Doge's Palace or Campanile that day, it is literally steps from all of these hotels.
VENICE FOOD
Don't eat just anywhere. With few meals to spare and so many great places to eat, it's a shame to waste meals in Venice on crappy food. Remember to leave yourself plenty of time to find these places, though, as the streets of Venice are not easy to maneuver.
La Zucca on Calle Tintor (again, ask directions because there are two Calle Tintors in Venice) is our favorite affordable restaurant in Venice. Their fresh tagliatelle pasta and the zucca (pumpkin) flan are their absolute best items. But all of the fresh pasta is good, and the salads, too. Prices are reasonable. I'm not as big of a fan of their meat dishes, so if you can live without, this is the place to do it.
Second to La Zucca would be Vini da Gigio. They are specialists at staples of Venetian cuisine, such as squid ink pasta and mixed fried seafood (fritto misto). This place is even harder to find than La Zucca, so it's essential you ask directions.
These two restaurants are almost always booked in advance (you have no idea how many people we've seen turned away from La Zucca as we're eating). The concierge at any decent hotel will make reservations for you, or if you're in the neighborhood already (i.e., scoping it out the day before so you won't get lost the next day ... am I the only person that does that?), you can just show up at the restaurant and make the reservation yourself for that evening or later that day. This is another reason to go to Venice when it's less crowded - you'll get into the restaurants you want to with just a day's notice.
For very special dinners, I recommend Da Fiore and the Grand Canal Restaurant at the Hotel Monaco. Da Fiore, on Scaleter in the S. Polo district, is the ultimate restaurant in Venice. The food is excellent, but expect to spend a lot (over 100 euro per person) - some of the best risotto, pasta and seafood you'll ever have, Venetian-style. The Grand Canal Restaurant is also pricey, but well worth it. Our first time eating there was probably the best food we'd had up to that point, which is saying a lot - certainly the best canneloni, and almost the best risotto, ever. Our second time there was very good, but not quite as spectacular as the first.
Other good options for food are Osteria Ai Carmini, which is on a side street off the south side of Campo Santa Margherita in the Dorsoduro. They have good fried calamari, and salty, but decent pastas (including squid ink). Seating consists of just a few tables outside on the street. Campo Santa Margherita is a great place to see the locals hang out in the afternoon and has a good gelato place on the south end across from the only supermarket we've been able to find in Venice. For decent take-away pizza, there's Pizza Al Volo right in the Campo, but I usually save pizza for Rome and Naples (see later postings). Near the Rialto bridge, Poste Vecie is also good for seafood/pasta (again, not the easiest to find), but a little pricier than La Zucca and Vini da Gigio.
Right across the "street" from the Hotel Monaco is Harry's Bar - famous for hot chocolate and bellinis (a mix of peach juice and prosecco - Italy's champagne). Hotel Monaco's bar also makes a fabulous bellini, which I like to have before my meals there.
If you're going to drink cappuccinos anywhere, you should drink it in Venice. We always fit in a morning cappuccino or quick light lunch at Rosa Salva, a little cafe that serves the best cappuccinos in the world, along with excellent tramezzinis (Venetian crustless sandwiches) and sweets. It's a simple place, but an institution in Venice (I imagine you would have to be if you advertise in mosaic tiles laid into the seemingly permanent stone street).
Caffe del Doge gives Rosa Salva a run for its money in the cappuccino department, but Mark and I still slightly favor Rosa Salva, maybe because we can only get it in Venice, whereas Caffe del Doge has a post in our very own backyard (downtown Palo Alto).
VENICE SIGHTS
As I mention above, Piazza San Marco should be your first stop. There are several cafes providing orchestral entertainment in the square from afternoon to evening, along with very expensive drinks and snacks. Caffe Florian is the most famous and oldest cafe in the piazza, and is a special experience for that reason alone. They charge a hefty price if you sit down to drink or dine, but it's an experience like no other, so it may be worth a $15 coke to just sit there, listen to the "dueling" orchestras, and soak it all in ... or not, depending on your level of appreciation for these kinds of things. The orchestras are famous for playing at night, but I've seen them start fairly early in the afternoon. Of course, in the Piazza, you have the Basilica and the Campanile. I've always found it worthwhile to pay the fee to go to the Basilica's museum (upstairs), where you can see the famous bronze horses (the real ones, not the fake ones on the facade of the building), and take in great views from the balcony. I was ok not paying the three euro (I hear prices have gone up) to go up the Campanile the second time around, though. Some administrative details that may make help you navigate the sights:
First, a gratuitous pitch for Pocket Pilot maps. I know that most of us can conveniently resort to our iPhones or various other GPS-enabled devices for maps and directions, but for those who still need to resort to physical maps (i.e., no international phone plans), I highly recommend the Pocket Pilot series, which are available for most major cities in Europe, the UK, and the Americas (mostly U.S. and Canada, but a few cities here and there in South American countries as well). They are precise, laminated, well-scaled, literally do fit comfortably in pockets (even women's pockets), and usually contain public transportation guides as well (i.e., subway routes).
For a little more depth and feel for various aspects or places in Italy (particularly Venice), I recommend the following books: The City of Falling Angels by John Berendt (of Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil fame), Eating Up Italy: Voyages on a Vespa by Matthew Fort, The Companion Guide to Venice by Hugh Honour, Eat, Pray, Love by Elizabeth Gilbert (at least the first part about eating in Rome), and the indulgent historic-fictional romance, A Venetian Affair by Andrea di Robilant.
I'm starting with Venice because it is my favorite city in Italy, and one of my favorites in the whole world. As soon as I glimpse the island from the Alilaguna boat (my favored mode of transportation from Aeroporto di Marco Polo), not only am I transplanted to a faraway place, but also a faraway time. The architecture and gondolas set the stage for you, but what really brings the feeling home is what's missing - cars. What makes Venice truly unique is the fact that its streets are purely pedestrian. Boats are a common mode of transportation, but by virtue of their being relegated to the water, they do not share (and thus do not interfere) with pedestrian streets. At the risk of preempting your own moment of revelation, I found that the complete absence of cars on the island refreshed my soul, a renewal I felt for the first time two days into my first visit. I felt like a new person, and after a few moments (as I strolled toward the Ferrovia station to buy a train ticket), I spotted the car park near the station, (Venice's umbilical cord connection to the mainland and the only place on the island you can spot any car at all), I realized how absolutely relaxing it was to not have to contend with cars.
VENICE HOTELS
We've only had the opportunity to stay at three hotels in Venice, but they are a good range for comparison.
Hotel Monaco & Grand Canal (http://www.hotelmonaco.it/) is our favorite. It's certainly not a budget hotel, but it's a great value if you can book their "Romantic" or "Honeymoon" stays, which last I checked in 2008 came out to approximately 200 euros per night for a 3-night stay, which includes tax (VAT), breakfast and usually some other goodie, ranging from a classical music CD (ok by me, not so exciting for Mark) to a bottle of Prosecco (score!). I would easily pay 350-400 euros per night and still feel as if it was a good deal (esp. after our experience at the Danieli, described next). The rooms are less ornate than older, historic hotels, but thereby more comfortable, and the bathrooms are large, elegant, with working heated towel racks and good water pressure. The complimentary breakfast is just a variety of breads and muffins, but you can request a variety of drinks (as many as you like, even if you order it for in-room delivery rather than going down to the dining room) and they make excellent cappuccinos. Don't be shy, and make use of their concierge desk. They are VERY helpful, and don't expect tips (although we always tip them gladly and generously at the end of our stay). The Hotel Monaco is also ideally located. It is almost directly in front of the San Marco vaporetto stop, which is very convenient for getting to and from anywhere, and is just steps (ok, maybe 20-30 steps) from Piazza San Marco. In fact, the Alilaguna boat shuttle from the Aeroporto di Marco Polo will drop you off at that stop, too. There is a lot to be said for not having to drag your luggage across town to get to and from your hotel.
Side note: The Alilaguna ride to and from the airport is over an hour long, but it's the most cost-effective way to get to Venice from the airport if you aren't in a large group, and as a bonus, you get great views of Venice on your way in since it circles the island to get to the San Marco stop (we always take the blue line, which makes several stops before it gets to San Marco - the gold line is more direct, but also more expensive). Water taxis are molto expensive, and only worth it if you're in a big hurry or have 5+ people going in one taxi.
Hotel Danieli, one of the preeminent luxury hotels in Venice, was a disaster for us. While I think it's extremely difficult, if not impossible, to have a great time on a budget in Venice, I certainly don't recommend spending a ton of money on beautiful old historic hotels that do not boast very recent renovations, even the ones that come highly recommended in Michelin, various other travel guides, and even that 1000 Places To See Before You Die book (maybe they were just recommending that you see the Hotel Danieli's lobby and not actually stay there overnight). The room we had was old, with chairs upholstered in the same pattern as the upholstered walls, curtains and bed covers. The antique-like furniture looked and felt like it was 100 years old, with the thinning threads, and worst of all, the two separate twin beds provided (not two twins mattresses bound together, which is usually what a King room in Europe would be) were lumpy and literally the worst beds we had ever slept on. The staff was snooty and cold, and quite obvious about waiting around for tips for every little bit of service performed (clearly used to fast-tipping American tourists). The lobby is beautiful, and I hear tell the restaurant has an excellent view, but those things you can experience without paying 450+ euros per night to stay the night there.
Finally, Palazzo Selvadego is a good, less expensive option. It is just down the street from, and a sister hotel of, the Hotel Monaco, so you get the same level of service and clean, modern facilities, just with less space, less high art, no real lobby to speak of, and you have to walk a few feet down the street to the Hotel Monaco for your complementary breakfast. It's not directly on the Grand Canal, but it shares the same proximity to the Piazza San Marco as the Hotel Monaco.
If you're going to check out the Piazza San Marco first thing, which I highly recommend even if you aren't going into the Basilica, Doge's Palace or Campanile that day, it is literally steps from all of these hotels.
VENICE FOOD
Don't eat just anywhere. With few meals to spare and so many great places to eat, it's a shame to waste meals in Venice on crappy food. Remember to leave yourself plenty of time to find these places, though, as the streets of Venice are not easy to maneuver.
La Zucca on Calle Tintor (again, ask directions because there are two Calle Tintors in Venice) is our favorite affordable restaurant in Venice. Their fresh tagliatelle pasta and the zucca (pumpkin) flan are their absolute best items. But all of the fresh pasta is good, and the salads, too. Prices are reasonable. I'm not as big of a fan of their meat dishes, so if you can live without, this is the place to do it.
Second to La Zucca would be Vini da Gigio. They are specialists at staples of Venetian cuisine, such as squid ink pasta and mixed fried seafood (fritto misto). This place is even harder to find than La Zucca, so it's essential you ask directions.
These two restaurants are almost always booked in advance (you have no idea how many people we've seen turned away from La Zucca as we're eating). The concierge at any decent hotel will make reservations for you, or if you're in the neighborhood already (i.e., scoping it out the day before so you won't get lost the next day ... am I the only person that does that?), you can just show up at the restaurant and make the reservation yourself for that evening or later that day. This is another reason to go to Venice when it's less crowded - you'll get into the restaurants you want to with just a day's notice.
For very special dinners, I recommend Da Fiore and the Grand Canal Restaurant at the Hotel Monaco. Da Fiore, on Scaleter in the S. Polo district, is the ultimate restaurant in Venice. The food is excellent, but expect to spend a lot (over 100 euro per person) - some of the best risotto, pasta and seafood you'll ever have, Venetian-style. The Grand Canal Restaurant is also pricey, but well worth it. Our first time eating there was probably the best food we'd had up to that point, which is saying a lot - certainly the best canneloni, and almost the best risotto, ever. Our second time there was very good, but not quite as spectacular as the first.
Other good options for food are Osteria Ai Carmini, which is on a side street off the south side of Campo Santa Margherita in the Dorsoduro. They have good fried calamari, and salty, but decent pastas (including squid ink). Seating consists of just a few tables outside on the street. Campo Santa Margherita is a great place to see the locals hang out in the afternoon and has a good gelato place on the south end across from the only supermarket we've been able to find in Venice. For decent take-away pizza, there's Pizza Al Volo right in the Campo, but I usually save pizza for Rome and Naples (see later postings). Near the Rialto bridge, Poste Vecie is also good for seafood/pasta (again, not the easiest to find), but a little pricier than La Zucca and Vini da Gigio.
Right across the "street" from the Hotel Monaco is Harry's Bar - famous for hot chocolate and bellinis (a mix of peach juice and prosecco - Italy's champagne). Hotel Monaco's bar also makes a fabulous bellini, which I like to have before my meals there.
If you're going to drink cappuccinos anywhere, you should drink it in Venice. We always fit in a morning cappuccino or quick light lunch at Rosa Salva, a little cafe that serves the best cappuccinos in the world, along with excellent tramezzinis (Venetian crustless sandwiches) and sweets. It's a simple place, but an institution in Venice (I imagine you would have to be if you advertise in mosaic tiles laid into the seemingly permanent stone street).
Caffe del Doge gives Rosa Salva a run for its money in the cappuccino department, but Mark and I still slightly favor Rosa Salva, maybe because we can only get it in Venice, whereas Caffe del Doge has a post in our very own backyard (downtown Palo Alto).VENICE SIGHTS
As I mention above, Piazza San Marco should be your first stop. There are several cafes providing orchestral entertainment in the square from afternoon to evening, along with very expensive drinks and snacks. Caffe Florian is the most famous and oldest cafe in the piazza, and is a special experience for that reason alone. They charge a hefty price if you sit down to drink or dine, but it's an experience like no other, so it may be worth a $15 coke to just sit there, listen to the "dueling" orchestras, and soak it all in ... or not, depending on your level of appreciation for these kinds of things. The orchestras are famous for playing at night, but I've seen them start fairly early in the afternoon. Of course, in the Piazza, you have the Basilica and the Campanile. I've always found it worthwhile to pay the fee to go to the Basilica's museum (upstairs), where you can see the famous bronze horses (the real ones, not the fake ones on the facade of the building), and take in great views from the balcony. I was ok not paying the three euro (I hear prices have gone up) to go up the Campanile the second time around, though. Some administrative details that may make help you navigate the sights:
- Everything opens around 9:30am, and in late fall, it seemed the lines started to get long around 10:30/11am.
- The lines really come and go, so if you have the time, and you see a really, really long line to get into the Basilica, just come back later, and maybe go to the Doge's Palace or shopping first.
- There are no backpacks allowed in the Basilica, and they make you check it at a church down a side street a block away from the Basilica, so if you can leave everything except for maybe a purse (which doesn't need to be checked) at your hotel for this visit, you'll be better off.
- The Doge's Palace (Palazzo Ducale) is just around the corner from the Basilica facing the water. When you walk along the water just past it, you'll see lots of folks staring and taking pictures of a famous enclosed bridge called the Bridge of Sighs. If you go into the Doge's Palace and make it all the way to the prison area, you actually get to walk inside the bridge and look out at all the people looking in. Very cool ... if you like pretending you're in prison.
I'm more of a history buff than art buff, so the Galleria Accademia and Peggy Guggenheim collection have always been low on my list, and I have yet to make it into these museums, but I hear they're fantastic. Other things worth seeing if you have time - Ai Frari church, fish/produce market near the Rialto bridge (not huge, but beautiful and fresh), and the Fenice Theater (recently rebuilt after being burned down ... a second time).
Finally, there's great shopping in Venice! They have all the stores you would look for in Rome - Gucci, Prada, Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Hermes, Ferragamo, Malo, Armani, Loro Piana, Frette was having a great sale while we were there, and so much more - along with the same VAT rebate, but all in a short walkable distance! Even the currency exchange office where you could apply for your VAT rebate was just across the street from the Louis Vuitton store! I don't know if it was the convenience, the prices or the beautiful way everything is displayed, but we have only ever been inspired to buy Gucci, Hermes, Ferragamo, Frette and Prada in Venice.
This should fill 3-5 days of food and sights in Venice ... at least it did for us. I encourage you not to be a day-tripper to Venice, because you'll come away feeling like you went to a theme park, and won't have the opportunity to let the deep history of Venice sink into your skin.
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